First toile made and pattern modifications have been noted down so I can alter the pattern pieces today and cut a second toile.
I need to let it out (more than I thought I’d have to) across the hem, I’ve split it open down the front and back to give me an idea of how much I need to add. I’ll add it evenly throughout the panels. I think a total of 16cm will be enough.
I need to add some length to the front bodice and remove some length on the back bodice- the band under the bust is tilted. Fingers crossed- removing some length on the back bodice and adding some width will be enough to remove, or at least minimize, the wrinkling you can see on the back skirt panels (I’m sure some of the wrinkles you can see is just from bad pinning).
I might lower and widen the neckline a small amount. It’s a nice height now without the contrast detailing but if I’m adding more fabric with the contrasting bust panels I can do with enlarging the neckline.
I haven’t added the sleeves to this toile and I’ve left off the contrasting fabric too. I will add the sleeves to the next toile but I think I’ll skip the contrasting fabric again, it’s not needed for tweaking the fit.
I’m going to transfer all the alterations to the pattern pieces today and if I have time cut out the second toile. If all goes well I should be able to sew it up by tomorrow and then go fabric hunting this weekend for the final version. I’ve already seen some gorgeous printed cotton voile online and I’m hoping they have it in store.
As pointed out on The Sewing Forum, I do have wonky shoulders and I know I need to fit for that. Generally I just pin out the excess just before I insert the sleeves but someone made the suggestion of using a small shoulder pad. It’s something I’ll mill over while I make the next toile.
Tsk, tsk, absent blogger, naughty girl not posting for a year. Let’s just pretend I never left and get on to the good stuff.
I saw a post on The Sewing Forum featuring BurdaStyle’s Francesca Variation top and I fell in love with it straight away. It looks to be a great blend of the bohemian spirit and a little bit romantic and sweet which is very much to my taste in fashion. What’s more, it’s available in extended plus sizes- meaning it goes up to a size 60 (euro sizing), rather than stopping at 52/54 like most of their downloads.
Oh- before we go any further- the real push over the fence was that it’s a FREE download. Sure, I still had to print it out and tape it all up, and annoyingly, it’s only available as US letter paper size (hello??!? the rest of the world uses A4!)… but I loved the look of it so much that I did just that.
I spent the evening having a look online for some fabric to make it out of and found a few very nice cotton prints at Lincraft online that look to be about the right scale of print compared to the made up, modelled version on BurdaStyle. I plan on dragging DH out fabric shopping at our local store after I’ve done the toile. Below is my mood board for inspiration, it helps to keep me focussed.
Speaking of the extended sizing for this pattern- I am pleased to say I can fit in to it! Yay! Going by the completed garment measurements I’ve traced off a 54 bust tapering through to 60 hips. Even if it’s a little bit snug at the start of summer I should get a seasons wear out of it without needing to cut a size smaller.
I’ve sewn up the bodice to check for fit. I will need to take it in along back back centre seam from neck to shoulder blades (rounded back alteration) but other than that it fit’s ok. I still need to attach the waistband, skirt panels and sleeves but I am omitting the bust and skirt insets (contrast fabric) because they’re not needed in the fitting stage. I’ll post pics of the toile once it’s finished. 🙂